Boot and Shoemaking
For this project, I wanted to design and create a simple pair of everyday black boots with an interesting construction. My goal was to to take inspiration from a certain style of mindful but complex, almost futuristic, design that I admire from designers like Kiko Kostadinov and blend it with the natural handwork style I prefer.
These are the first pair of hand-welted shoes I’ve attempted, but the second pair of shoes total that I’ve made.
The First Shoes
This is the first pair of shoes I ever made, almost four years ago now. I used no tutorials, and it was a tough learning curve trying to figure it out from scratch.
MOCCASIN SYLE SHOES, 2021
The New Boots
After taking a break from shoemaking for several years, I began the challenge of creating a pair of welted boots. Even though it was my first attempt, I wanted the design to be perfect.
DIVERGENT SKETCH IDEATION
SKETCH MODELING
Final Design
I eventually settled on a design that is similar to a traditional boot, but with the tongue on the outside. The laces weave through the sole and behind the heel in a complicated pattern.
FINAL DESIGN, FIRST VERSION
lACE PATTERN DIAGRAM, FIRST VERSION
CREATING THE PATTERN
Pattern Design Techniques and Experiments
This step took a long time and a lot of precision. I first made a paper approximation, then covered my last with tape, marking out the sections with string to get accurate lines
FIRST DRAFT PATTERN PIECES
PATTERN EXPERIMENTATION
TRANSLATING INTO LEATHER
CREATING STITCH HOLES
SEWING
Welt Cutting and Nailing Process
This was the hardest step so far. I had to cut a raised channel in the mid sole for the welt stitches to attach to, and then stretch the upper over the last, nailing it down as I went and gluing it as a final step
CUTTING THE WELT GROOVE
UPPER NAILED DOWN
GLUING DOWN
Welt Strap, Cork Filling, and Sole
WELT STRAP SEWN ON BY HAND
GLUING AND SHAPING THE CORK
GLUING DOWN THE SOLE
STITCHED SOLE AND HEEL BLOCK
Wet Molding Process
This was the scariest part for me. I suspected that the leather of the upper would be able to mold to my foot, but I just wasn't sure. I was pleasantly surprised with the results. The fold that appeared added exactly the visual interested it needed.
Final Photos
The last step was to refine and add the laces. I chose a black ribbon to thread through the sole, and added eye hooks on the heel.
